Cengia Veronesi
Description
Despite this excursion along the exposed ledge system of the Cime Fanis being praised in some guidebooks, the full circuit is not generally recommended. This description follows a shorter route, which can be considered an alternative to the Ferrata Tomaselli or combined with it. Although the route described here is relatively short, it should not be underestimated: solid footing and good sense of direction are essential!
Access & starting point
From Val Badia via Passo Valparola (2172 m), or from Cortina via Passo Falzarego (2105 m). Large paid parking area near the valley station of the Lagazuoi cable car. Ascent via the cable car (top station at 2752 m).
Approach
From the top station, descend to the Forcella Lagazuoi (2563 m) and turn left onto trail no. 20 (signposted Ferrata Tomaselli) until the next junction. Here, follow trail no. 20b (Ferrata Tomaselli) to the "Bivacco della Chiesa" and from the bivouac climb briefly to the Forcella Grande. From the col, turn left onto an unmarked trail (descend the Ferrata Tomaselli) to the Selletta Fanis (2815 m). From here descend steeply over scree (poorly marked trail) and traverse beneath the east face of the Cime di Fanis, leftward, to the start of the ferrata (marked by a steel cable), crossing a debris-covered snowfield. Crevasses in the ice, usually visible, are large enough to swallow a climber!
Route
The start of the ferrata is very steep, but secured with steel cables. The climb ends at an old World War I gallery that crosses the mountain from east to west (a headlamp is essential!). From there, follow the ledge leftward (only partially secured) until meeting the steel cable of the Ferrata Tomaselli. Descend the ferrata (expect opposing traffic and a very steep final section!) back to the starting point. Alternatively, follow the cable just to the shoulder (scree slope). If continuing along the next steep segment of the ferrata, you can follow a faint, exposed and awkward trail leftward to rejoin the ascent path. Not recommended variant, occasionally described: Follow the "Cengia Veronesi" rightward (only partially secured with cables, highly exposed; absolutely not recommended without sure footing and mountain experience), traversing the west side of the Cima Fanis to a notch between the Cime Fanis and Cima Scotoni. Descend to Forcella Lago and Lago Scotoni. From here, you must traverse the entire Lagazuoi plateau and return via trail no. 20 to Forcella Lagazuoi. A very long descent back to the start.
Technical Details
An excursion not to be underestimated, featuring long, steep rocky steps and exposed trail sections. The Cengia Veronesi is secured with new steel cables only in some parts.
Descent
After descending the steel cable of the Ferrata Tomaselli to the starting point, continue to the nearby "Bivacco della Chiesa" and ascend again along the trail leftward to the col. On the other side, the scenic trail descends and meets the ascent route, following it to Forcella Travenanzes. From here, follow trail no. 402 (signposted) back to the cable car valley station.
Gallery
