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Ferrata Furcia Rossa

Peak:
Furcia Rossa III, 2,791m
Grade:
C
(Schall)
(Smith/Fletcher):  
Technical difficulty:
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Total Time:
8½ hrs
Ferrata time:
~ 1.5 hours – 220m elevation gain, 130m descent
~ 1.5 hours – 220m elevation gain, 130m descent
Total Ascent:
1,200 m
Approach time:
3½ hrs
Descent time:
3 hrs
Orientation:
Northwest
GPX file:

Description

A ferrata with a long approach and descent, partially secured, that follows old military paths from the Great War. The route includes recently renewed ladders and cables. Excellent physical condition, solid mountain experience, stable weather, and a sure-footed step are essential for this excursion. The entire trail network between Vallon Bianco and the Furcia Rossa peaks is called the "Peace Trail." At the end of the descent from Furcia Rossa III, in case of sudden weather changes, there is an option to detour via the Bivacco della Pace (30 minutes from the end of the ladders).

Access & starting point

From Val Badia, head toward San Cassiano and beyond toward Passo Valparola. Just before Ponte Sciarè, turn left and continue until Albergo Capanna Alpina (1726 m, parking available).

Approach

From Capanna Alpina, follow trail no. 11, which crosses the Col de Locia and leads to Col Tadega (2157 m). Continue toward Malga Gran Fanes. About 5 minutes before reaching the malga, take trail no. 17 to the right toward Monte Castello. After the junction, ascend a steep slope marked VB (Vallon Bianco). After passing more WWI ruins, you reach a fork (signposted). Turn right and descend along a ledge, pass under a rock roof and reach the first ladder, which marks the start of the via ferrata.

Route

This crossing of Furcia Rossa III is technically demanding, crossing a notably remote and isolated landscape. Far from the main path to Malga Gran Fanes, the route moves through a relatively solitary and seldom-travelled area.

Technical Details

The secured sections are relatively short but partially very exposed (notably a long ladder down near the end). On unprotected sections, a very sure foot is essential.

Descent

From the summit of Furcia Rossa III, descend briefly to the ruins marking the trail (walls and signs). The route then climbs briefly left (toward Monte Castello), followed by a steep and exposed descent with only partial protections. After reaching a notch, follow a narrow and exposed ridge beneath Furcia Rossa IV to a vertical wall. Begin descending the long and exposed ladder series that leads to the end of the ferrata. Follow the path for about 150 m, then briefly descend right across a scree slope (clearly marked). Continuing straight leads to Bivacco della Pace (add 1 hour). At the end of the scree, turn west and follow an unmarked trail until rejoining trail no. 17 (used for descent). Stay left (yellow-white trail markers) and descend a shortcut ridge to rejoin trail no. 11 (used for ascent). Alternatively, reverse the entire ascent route via trail no. 17 back to Capanna Alpina.