Via Ferrata Bolver-Lugli
Description
Long, tiring, and exposed approach along the buttress. Requires absolute step security on steep unprotected terrain, partially with grade I difficulty. Long descent with reascents. The route is well equipped with taut cables on solid pitons.
Access & starting point
Reach San Martino di Castrozza from the north via Passo Rolle or from the south via Fiera di Primiero. Head to the lower station of the Colverde cable car (at the northern edge of town, near a hairpin bend); park at the Colverde cable car station, 1965 m, and take the lift up.
Approach
From the upper station of the cable car (sign for Ferrata Bolver-Lugli), follow trail no. 706 to the start, partially uphill.
Route
Long itinerary, with reascents during the descent. The rocky front is not equipped and has a steep step while descending towards Val dei Cantoni, requiring absolutely secure steps despite only being grade I. The ferrata progresses linearly and pleasantly along the steep wall.
Technical Details
The route is almost entirely on solid rock with plenty of holds, making the cable mainly useful for protection. Particularly in the upper part, there are exposed and steep sections. Good climbing technique makes the ascent easier. Solid fitness and mountaineering experience are essential. Reascents during the return route require strong endurance. Be cautious: in early summer, snow from heavy winters may still linger on steep slopes in Val dei Cantoni—crampons might be needed.
Descent
From the ferrata, reach Bivacco Fiamme Gialle. From there, follow a long trail crossing toward Passo del Travignolo. Just before the pass, descend into Val dei Cantoni (trail marked in red from the summit). Lower down is a grade I climb. At the first junction, turn right (sign for Rifugio Rosetta) and ascend to Passo Bettega. Descend from the pass following signs to the Rifugio (another brief reascent). From Rifugio Rosetta, descend by the same lift system to the Colverde cable car station. 1¾–2 hrs, 230 m of elevation gain in reascents.
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