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Via Ferrata Cesare Piazzetta

Peak:
Piz Boè, 3152 m
Grade:
D
(Schall)
5C
(Smith/Fletcher):  
Technical difficulty:
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Total Time:
6–6½ hrs
Ferrata time:
2 – 2½ hrs
2 – 2½ hrs
Total Ascent:
923 m
Approach time:
1½ hrs
Descent time:
1½ – 2 hrs
Orientation:
South
GPX file:

Description

A long and very steep climb with a strenuous initial section that non-climbers will find challenging as it requires strength and good climbing technique.

Access & starting point

From Canazei in Val di Fassa or Arabba, ascend to Passo Pordoi; from the pass, take a paved road toward the Ossuary of Guerra del Pordoi, visible from afar. Small car park at 2229 m.

Approach

The path to the start begins right at the Ossuary of Guerra and is signposted. A steep climb along a rough path reaches the base of the steep rock faces of Piz Boè. Join trail no. 7, which leads right to the start.

Route

A long climb and difficult ferrata, well equipped with steel cable, but with sustained difficulty. The initial section of 150m or so includes smooth vertical walls, with some smearing and short overhanging moves; not too hard if you're already a rock climber, but non-climbers will find this first section challenging (extremely strenuous).

The rest of the route follows a less difficult path, but the upper slope requires caution due to loose rocks.

Technical Details

A very demanding route requiring exceptional physical fitness and excellent footwork. Solid climbing and mountain experience on exposed terrain are essential. Due to its length, the climb should only be attempted in stable weather.

Descent

From the top, continue to the summit (143 m and 30 min) and Rifugio Capanna Piz Fassa for food or lodging. Descend via trail no. 627 through Forcella Pordoi down to Passo Pordoi and return to the starting point.

Alternatively, at the exit, follow trail no. 638 towards Lago Gelato to the base of the rock wall, then back to the starting point.

Gallery