Via Ferrata Cresta Ovest
Description
A demanding alpine excursion to the highest summit in the Dolomites. The via ferrata doesn't present major technical difficulties, but the entire ascent requires solid experience in high mountains and glacier progression, as well as excellent physical condition. After a storm or a period of poor weather, the ridge becomes icy. Crampons, ice axe, and a rope for both ascent and descent are absolutely essential.
Access & starting point
Reach Alba di Canazei and park at the base station of the Ciampac cable car. Take the forest road/trail no. 602, which after a series of switchbacks, leads through the scenic Val de Contrin. Follow the same road/trail to reach the Rifugio Contrin (2016 m).
Approach
From Rifugio Contrin (2016 m), continue to a junction marked with trail posts. Take trail 606–610 toward Forcella Marmolada and Passo d'Ombretta. The trail starts through pasture and is not very well-marked but becomes more evident once reaching a large boulder and begins the ascent into the stunning Val Rosalia, closed on one side by the west face of Punta Ombretta and on the other by the massive Marmolada. After the boulder and a small stream in a scree zone, the trail ascends moderately through a picturesque valley. At about 2400 m altitude, you'll reach a fork. Keep right onto trail no. 610 which continues straight toward the obvious notch of Forcella della Marmolada. The trail zigzags up to the start of the ferrata, 30 m below the pass, where the route begins along rocky slabs until Forcella (2895 m), where it connects with the "Pian dei Fiacconi – Lago di Fedaia" route (currently impassable).
Route
A long and very alpine outing. The via ferrata itself is not particularly difficult technically, but the climb can be icy even in summer after a sudden change in weather, becoming highly demanding. In poor weather, especially with storms, this route should be avoided. The Marmolada glacier, while seemingly "harmless" (descent), must be tackled with due respect, and absolutely with rope and full glacier gear!
Technical Details
From a technical perspective, this via ferrata has no particular difficulties or crux sections (in fact, some might find it dull or monotonous if they prefer routes with varied holds and features). The true technical consideration lies in the glacier traverse (Vernel and Marmolada), which requires gear and skills beyond typical ferrata routes. You may find yourself descending a snowy slope with deep crevasses. The descent back down the via ferrata is not technically demanding but may be tedious due to multiple ladder sections.
Descent
To return to Val Contrin from the summit, you must descend the via ferrata again, which can be inconvenient if you meet ascending hikers (there are several wider spots where you can pass each other comfortably).
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