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Via Ferrata Degli Alpini

Peak:
Col dei Bos, 2,559m
Grade:
C
(Schall)
3B
(Smith/Fletcher):  
Technical difficulty:
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Total Time:
3½ hrs
Ferrata time:
2hrs (to summit +15 mins)
(300m elevation gain)
Total Ascent:
500 m
Approach time:
30 mins
Descent time:
1 hr
Orientation:
South
GPX file:

Description

An interesting and varied route with relatively short access and descent, this ferrata is a good test of aptitude for longer and harder climbs. Good  climbing techniques are immediately required at the start, but the ascent becomes significantly easier. The route is very popular in high season; expect long waiting times.

Access & starting point

From Passo Falzarego, briefly towards Cortina. After about 1 km, there's parking near the "da Strobel" bar (2035 m).

Approach

From the northern end of the parking lot, follow a wide path under the striking rock towers of the Falzarego area. Where the trail intersects the old military road, go right to the remains of a World War I outpost. You'll pass two helicopter landing areas (marked in red on maps), then follow a narrow trail toward Col dei Bos and the start of the ferrata. The steel cable is visible from the helicopter landing field.

Route

The entire ferrata is well protected. The main difficulties of this ferrata (also known as Ferrata della Piramide) are found right at the beginning, which is very steep. Search for good footholds to avoid just using upper body strength. After a short and easy traverse to the left to reach the key point, there's a short overhanging section. The climb then becomes less steep; higher up, there are more short climbing sections that are exposed. 

Technical Details

The ferrata is well equipped with well tensioned steel cables and regullar anchors, together with iron rungs for the particularly steep sections. In the central part of the ascent, there are brief and easily managed segments that are secured but not very exposed.

Descent

From the exit, you can cut left along a narrow trail into a wide saddle (early in the season, beware of lingering snowfields), or continue to the highest point of Col dei Bos and descend from there into the saddle. Follow faint tracks and a steep narrow path down through the wide gully between Col dei Bos and Torre Falzarego to return to the start via the same path as the ascent.

Gallery