Very long route in an isolated area in one of the most remote corners of the Pale. The long approach and equally long descent combined with the steep climb to Forcella dell'Orsa make this a challenge for well-trained climbers in a wild and beautiful landscape.
Through the Val di Fiemme towards Moena, over Passo San Pellegrino to Cencenighe Agordino, continue to Taibon Agordino, turn into Valle di San Lucano. Proceed to Col di Prà. Park at the hotel-restaurant or just before the no-entry sign.
Follow the road first and then the forest track after the bridge. After a few curves, follow a faint signpost no. 767 upstream. At the streambed (approx. 1300 m), turn right to reach the start at about 1600 m, below a pyramid-shaped spire.
The long approach through Valle d'Angheraz is followed by a steep climb up ladders and cables through a dwarf pine zone; continue zigzagging across unstable scree in protected sections (stay on the left side of the gully). About two-thirds of the way up, you reach a basin (possible snow remains) and then turn right into a grassy gully with rocks (red/white trail signs). Follow this to a steep grassy slope. Lastly, climb a scree and proceed to the final protected ledge before Forcella dell'Orsa.