Via Ferrata Eterna
Description
The Ferrata Eterna, which had been partially closed for years, was fully renovated in the summer of 2012. The new start is located about 300 m higher in elevation and now includes slab climbing in the lower section. The new line of anchors is well equipped. The ascent follows the challenging ridge section beyond Punta Serauta to the end of the ferrata.
Access & starting point
The artificial basin of Fedaia at the Fedaia Pass is most easily reached via the Passo Sella and Canazei in Val di Fassa, or through the Passo di Costalunga and Canazei. The road runs along the lake to the Fedaia Pass (2056 m), where you can park near the Rifugio Fedaia at the eastern end of the lake.
Approach
From Rifugio Passo Fedaia, follow the ski slope uphill for around 500 m until you reach a sign marking the trail access. Turn left and follow a trail from World War I along a grassy and rocky slope up to the saddle below Sas del Mul. Continue over scree and slabs, then turn right for around 200 m and ascend toward a ridge. The access route then turns left over a scree slope to the start of the ferrata (panoramic view!). The new route climbs along the north-west slope to a series of slabs on the same side, then rejoins the old line. At the beginning of the approach, there's an info board about the ferrata.
Route
A very long ferrata, not particularly technical, though the ridge section is at times quite exposed. Good physical condition and solid mountain experience are essential for this route. From Rifugio Serauta (end of the ferrata), it's possible to descend directly to the Fedaia Pass across the glacier and the underlying moraine (approx. 2 hrs), but glacier gear is required! It's highly recommended to tackle the route in good weather and return to the pass by cable car or local bus (watch the schedule!).
Technical Details
The climb up the smooth slabs, now easier than before, still offers a tough test for your leg muscles. On the ridge beyond Punta Serauta, you'll encounter some highly exposed sections. The path along the ridge alternates between sharp climbs and steep descents (very tiring). With unstable weather, humidity, sudden temperature drops, or residual snow, this ferrata is absolutely not recommended!
Descent
The best and easiest way down is by taking the cable car to Malga Ciapela (make sure to check that it's operating as there are no alternative descents.). From there, use the local bus to return to the Fedaia Pass (check the bus schedule!).
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