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Via Ferrata Franco Gadotti

Peak:
Sas Aut, 2555 m
Grade:
B/C
(Schall)
(Smith/Fletcher):  
Technical difficulty:
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Total Time:
7½ hrs
Ferrata time:
~2½ hrs (500m elevation gain)
~2½ hrs (500m elevation gain)
Total Ascent:
1,400 m
Approach time:
2 hrs
Descent time:
3 hrs
Orientation:
North
GPX file:

Description

Easy ferrata with a few steep sections, all of which are fairly easy to climb. Only some sections are equipped with steel cables (mostly with good anchors); at the more difficult points there are artificial steps. The difficulty lies in exposed sections along scree and unstable rock (risk of falling!). The final gully is full of unstable debris and the steel cables are partly buried—there's a high risk of falling rocks!

Access & starting point

From Bolzano via the Val d'Ega and the Costalunga Pass to Pozza di Fassa. As the road has been closed to traffic since summer 2019, take the shuttle bus from Ponza to Malga Crocifisso, the starting point.

Approach

A clearly visible sign on the road marks the path to Bivacco Donato Zeni (2100 m). The access route is well signposted, and a short section under the bivouac is secured with steel cables. From the bivouac, follow trail no. 617 and in a few minutes you'll reach the starting point (memorial plaque — beginning of the steel cable).

Route

A very long route, partly alpine. Secure footing and experience with steep, easy but exposed terrain are essential (fall risk!). After a brief exposed descent into a basin, you arrive along a path on the ridge (signpost) that connects the Sas de la Doudesc (short, easy summit detour to the right) with the Sas Aut. Continue to the left, pass the signposts indicating the descent toward Moena and continue along the cables that lead to the grassy plateau of Sas Aut (in case of fog or bad weather, orientation may be problematic!). At the signpost, descend right following faint path traces along the steep gully (further down, steel cables partly buried — watch out for climbers below — high rockfall danger!). The ferrata ends at the end of the gully. The descent is an undertaking in itself!

Technical Details

A relatively easy and quite dull ferrata, with long stretches of partially exposed trail. Along the trail, you frequently encounter unstable rocks and scree, but rarely other climbers. The steel cables, where present, are well anchored and the secured trail sections are fairly easy to cross without much effort. Those seeking a peaceful alpine outing are in the right place. Those looking for a highly athletic and airy ferrata are certainly in the wrong spot!

Descent

At the end of the gully, climb laboriously to the left along trail traces, with several short climbs, until reaching Forcella Baranchie (2628 m). This part of the trail is poorly marked and in fog or poor weather, navigation can become problematic! From Forcella Baranchie (marked signpost) you can make a short detour to Punta Vallaccia. Otherwise, continue through Forcella de la Costela (2529 m). Descend briefly in the direction of Rifugio Vallaccia, then at the first fork beneath the rock wall, climb to the left (ground signpost — trail no. 615) to Forcella Vallaccia (2468 m — follow trail beneath the wall!). From the saddle, descend laboriously over scree to the bivouac. From there, retrace the approach trail to return to the starting point.