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Via Ferrata Gianni Aglio & Via Ferrata Tofana Di Mezzo

Area:
Cortina
Peak:
Tofana di Mezzo, 3,244m
Grade:
D
(Schall)
(Smith/Fletcher):  
Technical difficulty:
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Total Time:
3½ hrs
Ferrata time:
2 hrs
(380m elevation gain)
Total Ascent:
780 m
Approach time:
1 hr
Descent time:
Orientation:
South
GPX file:

Description

For those who love long alpine climbs — this is the place to be!

The climber will encounter a mix of difficult, extremely exposed sections and easy terrain, leading to a scarred alpine landscape that is nearly perfect. In case of fresh snow or fog, the orientation can become very difficult! Early in the season, you might encounter old snow; it is strongly recommended to bring an ice axe just in case.

Access & starting point

Approach

From the Ra Valles station (signposted), follow the red-white marked trail to the junction with the Sentiero Olivieri. Continue in the same direction until the junction with the Punta Anna route (also signposted). Then turn right (sign "Cima") and follow the red dots up the scree slope to the ridge and the first ladder. Alternative Access Routes: You can reach Ferrata Gianni Aglio and the subsequent Tofana di Mezzo trail either: via Ferrata Giuseppe Olivieri (route 22) or via Sentiero Giuseppe Olivieri (route 24). This makes the excursion even longer, more difficult, and serious.

Route

A long ascent offering everything from fascinating segments to boring ones. There are two very difficult and exposed sections that require significant upper body strength, followed by an easy trail in a surreal landscape full of old avalanche protection structures. Very high-alpine route — difficulty increases significantly with fresh or old snow. Sure footing and solid high-mountain experience are essential! After the airy traverse to Torre Gianni Aglio and an easier intermezzo, a steep descent (secured) leads to the saddle at the foot of the southeast ridge (Bus de Tofana). From this saddle, if weather permits (i.e. no snow/ice), you can descend to the left toward Rifugio Giussani or straight down (unmarked path) to Ra Valles. The continuation of the ferrata to Tofana di Mezzo is marked in red on the saddle (toward the avalanche barriers). There's a short steel cable at the beginning, and a visible path leads to the summit.

Technical Details

Ferrata with quite long sections, especially in the second half. Parts of it are easy terrain, partly exposed. Anchor points are not always in the best condition, and anchor points are rare, such as on the difficult section on Torre Gianni Aglio.

Descent

From the summit, descend on the roped-in trail to the top station of the Freccia nel Cielo cable car (with a restaurant but no overnight stay options). Take the cable car down to Ra Valles, and from there return to your starting point.