Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella
Description
The long traverses along the west face are exposed to meltwater and rain; until the Tre Dita section, the elevation gain is barely noticeable. The actual elevation gain is concentrated in the upper section of the wall, where the real climbing begins. The terraces along the detrital slopes of the west face are often still covered in hard snow, even at the beginning of summer. In late summer or autumn, when there's no snow left, the climb often becomes dusty and fragile. A small patch of ice is often present, so an ice-axe is recommended in any case.
Access & starting point
From Passo Falzarego in the direction of Cortina. A few kilometres after the Cinque Torri turnoff, turn left toward Rifugio Dibona (signposted). There's a relatively large car park at the beginning of the road (2053 m), which is still partly paved.
Approach
From Rifugio Angelo Dibona (2053 m), first follow the wide war path toward the southern wall of Tofana. At the lower cable car station for Rifugio Giussani, turn left (trail no. 442) and ascend along the flank to the base of the wall. Continue on trail no. 404, then turn right at a marked junction to reach the Castelletto Tunnel entrance.
Route
A very long and demanding alpine route, requiring solid mountain experience, knowledge of weather conditions, and excellent physical fitness. The route features long traverses, which are exposed but secured with cables. The rock in the steep sections offers good grip. The steel cables are new and well-tensioned. At the prominent rocky peak Tre Dita (2680 m), it is possible to end the route early and descend to Rifugio Giussani (recommended if tired or bad weather).
Technical Details
The ferrata includes long traverses. Two ladders lead to the Castelletto Tunnel, which is 500 m long and completely dark - a headlamp is essential. The path is well-secured with thick, taut steel cables; the real difficulty is only found in the final section of the ferrata.
Descent
From the summit, follow the normal route along the north-east shoulder. Follow the blue waymarkers, initially steep and rocky, then across gentler scree slopes to Rifugio Giussani. From there, follow trail no. 403 to return to the starting point.
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