Via Ferrata Giuseppe Olivieri
Description
A very exposed climb requiring significant upper body strength in places. The steel cables begin at Punta Anna and climb toward Doss de Tofana, and are quite exposed and poorly protected. From Doss de Tofana, one can descend or continue to the summit of Tofana di Mezzo via the Gianni Aglio and Tofana di Mezzo ferratas, making for a long, technically very difficult, and highly demanding mountain outing.
Access & starting point
From Passo Falzarego toward Cortina, continue past the Cinque Torri road. Turn left at a signposted asphalt forest road (Rifugio Duca d’Aosta). At the next junction, turn right onto a rough dirt road (signposted) and continue to Rifugio Duca d’Aosta.
Alternatively, you can also take the main road toward Cortina until Lacedel, turn left at the Col Druscié cable car / Ristorante Pié Tofana sign, and reach the lower station of the chairlift. Take the lift first to Rifugio Duca d’Aosta, then continue via chairlift to Rifugio Pomedes (2303 m).
Approach
From the upper chairlift station (signposted), follow a short but steep path beneath the rocks of Punta Anna to the ferrata start, which is visible from the lift.
Route
An interesting and very direct climb on excellent rock, with good holds and footholds. Climbing experience is recommended. The approach is short, but the descent via the Sentiero Olivieri, though secured, requires full attention and concentration. Tip: Instead of climbing up to Doss de Tofana (which is not a true summit, just a crest adjacent to the Pomedes Towers), you can descend after the narrow ridge from Punta Anna by turning left to Rifugio Giussani (marked trail, steel cables).
Technical Details
Beautiful and highly exposed climb on solid rock. The route is secured only with steel cables and lacks artificial footholds in steep sections. Spacing between anchors is short.
Descent
From Doss de Tofana, trails diverge (signed for Ra Valles or Cima – Tofana di Mezzo). Descent is via the path toward the Ra Valles station, following signs for 'Ra Valles' or 'Cima – Tofana di Mezzo'. Then continue on the Sentiero Olivieri (secured with cables and ladders) to return to Rifugio Pomedes.
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