★☆☆☆☆
★★☆☆☆
★★★☆☆
★★★★☆
★★★★★

Via Ferrata Heini Holzer

Area:
Merano
Peak:
Piccolo Ivigna, 2552 m
Grade:
C
(Schall)
(Smith/Fletcher):  
Technical difficulty:
💪
💪 💪
💪 💪 💪
💪 💪 💪 💪
💪 💪 💪 💪 💪
Total Time:
5 - 6 hrs
Ferrata time:
~3-4 hrs
~3-4 hrs
Total Ascent:
730 m
Approach time:
1 hr
Descent time:
1 hr
Orientation:
Southwest
GPX file:

Description

The Heini Holzer via ferrata, with its 550 m of elevation gain, is the first ascent in the Merano region to bear this name. Fully secured with 1000 m of steel cable and with a medium difficulty level (A–B–B/C), it is also suitable for less experienced climbers and families with children who enjoy walking and climbing together.

Access & starting point

By car from Merano, follow directions for Scena and then Avelengo until reaching the valley station of the Merano 2000 cable car (also accessible by public bus from Merano), and take the lift up to the top station.

Approach

From the upper station of the Merano 2000 cable car (Piffinger Köpfl — also reachable from the Falzeben car park in Avelengo), the trail crosses a wide forest road for a short stretch until a junction, where a sign indicates the start of the via ferrata. Here, turn left onto trail no. 18 (Schartlweg, partially secured), initially a gentle descent, then passing several junctions until reaching the marked starting point just below a well-visible gear-up platform. Alternative Approaches: From Scena to the valley station of the Taser cable car. Take the cable car up and cross to Rifugio Picco Ivigna to Forcella Ivigna, then follow trail no. 18 to the starting point. From the intermediate station of the Merano 2000 cable car (up to Gsteier). Follow trail no. 3 to Ochsenboden, then continue on Schartlweg trail, turning left to reach the marked starting point.

Route

The wide panorama from the via ferrata stretches over the Merano area and the Bassa Atesina region. The ascent area is wild and scenic. Although the route requires relatively good physical condition, the difficulties are moderate and offer a rewarding experience even for less experienced climbers. Key requirements are: an early morning start and good physical shape. There is no water along the route; returning via the same path is only possible descending.

Technical Details

The entire ferrata is secured with steel cables and does not feature any free climbing sections; some easier holds and short ladders are included. However, the final section, known as the "Spigolo dell'angelo" (Angel's Edge), has an impressive exposed traverse on rock. The southwest-facing climb requires an early start in the morning to avoid the midday sun. Experienced climbers can also tackle the route in winter.

Descent

After exiting the ferrata, follow the signs to the "Piccolo Ivigna and Picco Ivigna" junction. Here begins the descent to Rifugio Kuhleiten (visible nearby). Those arriving late or not wishing to stop at the hut can continue straight to a grassy path that returns to the starting point. Piccolo Ivigna (2552 m) can be climbed from this junction in about 10 minutes, while another short ferrata leads to Picco Ivigna (2581 m). From there, return to the access trail.