Via Ferrata I Magnifici 4
Description
Probably the most difficult ferrata in the Dolomites and in the area around Lake Garda, recommended only for experienced and strong climbers. For these individuals, it can be a rewarding half-day excursion. That said, there are certainly more scenic routes elsewhere in the Dolomites.
Access & starting point
From Bolzano via Val d'Ega and Passo di Costalunga to Pozza di Fassa. Since the road has been closed to traffic since summer 2019, a shuttle bus runs from the town of Ponza to Malga Crocifisso, the starting point.
Approach
Begin briefly along a paved road until reaching a stream crossing and a bridge. Cross it to reach a rifugio (waymark: "ferrata"). Follow the signposted path that ascends steeply in zigzags. At a hairpin bend, ignore the left-hand path (signposted) and continue via a faint trail to the ferrata start, reached with some effort.
Route
Not a particularly long route, but extremely difficult and exposed. It requires excellent technique, confidence on rock, and stamina. The key crux section—overhanging and strenuous—is extremely hard. An added rope with carabiners helps on the exposed crossing before this section. The central part of the ferrata is partially on poor terrain but is less difficult.
Technical Details
Extremely steep and overhanging sections, sometimes aided by artificial steps. The rock in the large arena where the hardest moves are located is sandy and, in spring or after storms, often wet and slippery. The first section is a draining gymnastic test on a taut cable, the middle section a boring traverse, and the final climb is the most enjoyable part.
Descent
From the exit, it's just a couple of minutes to reach Rifugio Baita Cuz, where a sign marks the descent to Val di San Nicolò.
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