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Via Ferrata Laurenzi

Area:
Latemar
Peak:
Molignon di Mezzo, 2845 m
Grade:
D, I/II
(Schall)
(Smith/Fletcher):  
Technical difficulty:
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Total Time:
8½ hrs
Ferrata time:
~2½ hrs
~2½ hrs
Total Ascent:
1,200 m
Approach time:
2½ hrs
Descent time:
3½ hrs
Orientation:
northwest
GPX file:

Description

This via ferrata, although recently refurbished and slightly eased, remains one of the most challenging via ferratas in the Catinaccio Group. As a full-day tour, it is recommended only for very well-trained alpinists.

Access & starting point

From Val d'Isarco, passing through Castelrotto, reach the Alpe di Siusi (road open every day before 9 am and after 5 pm – paid parking at Compatsch). Alternatively: cable car from Siusi or Seiseralm-Express shuttle (from Siusi and Castelrotto). Chairlift Panorama upper station (operates mid-May to late October). Full information at www.schlerngebiet.com.

Approach

From the upper station of the Panorama chairlift (2011 m), reach Rifugio Alpe di Tires, continue on trail no. 554 toward Passo Principe. Shortly before the Passo del Molignon, follow red markings to the first pitons (approx. 45 min from the hut).

Route

Full-day excursion, requiring endurance, excellent physical condition, and significant alpine experience. In bad weather or uncertain conditions, the trail should absolutely be avoided: it's extremely exposed. Route-finding can be challenging; as the path is not always evident despite red markings and stone cairns. Given the length, it's advisable to overnight at Rifugio Alpe di Tires.

Technical Details

A grand traverse with a very long approach and descent. Although the route has been well secured with steel cables, it should only be undertaken in stable weather and by those with extensive alpine experience.

Descent

After the final difficult step, descend left through a debris gully toward Lago d'Antermoia. Take trail no. 554 ascending to Passo di Antermoia below the Catinaccio d'Antermoia, continuing to Passo Principe, and return via Passo del Molignon to Rifugio Alpe di Tires.