★☆☆☆☆
★★☆☆☆
★★★☆☆
★★★★☆
★★★★★

Via Ferrata Marino Bianchi

Area:
Cortina
Peak:
Cristallo di Mezzo, 3,154m
Grade:
C/D
(Schall)
(Smith/Fletcher):  
Technical difficulty:
💪
💪 💪
💪 💪 💪
💪 💪 💪 💪
💪 💪 💪 💪 💪
Total Time:
6 hrs
Ferrata time:
3½ hrs incl. descent
Total Ascent:
1,100 m
Approach time:
2 hrs
Descent time:
Orientation:
Northwest
GPX file:

Description

Partially very exposed via ferrata; a very steep and overhanging gulley/chimney in the third upper section requires strength and skill (especially on the descent). Two very exposed steps/ledges help negotiate the yellow ledges of the overhanging section. Old steel cables have only recently been replaced, so securing oneself independently on difficult points of the ascent and descent is advisable, especially where there are no ropes. Due to the eastern exposure and the height of the ferrata, it's possible to encounter residual snow from the old snowpack.

Access & starting point

From Cortina d'Ampezzo, take the road through Passo Tre Croci to the car park at the bottom station of the Son Forca chairlift. Ascend by lift to the Rifugio Son Forca.

Approach

From the top station at Son Forca (2215 m), continue with effort along a steep scree slope to Rifugio Lorenzi. The ferrata starts just behind the hut. The lift that used to reach Rifugio Lorenzi is now closed, but may be restored (if so, the approach time shortens by 2 hours).

Route

Very varied via ferrata with exposed sections and short traverses. If the weather is uncertain (storms, rain, snow), great caution is required, especially since the descent follows the same via ferrata route. Alpine tours here are less frequented since the Staunies cable car closed.

Technical Details

Decidedly demanding via ferrata, very well secured with steel cables and ladders.

Descent

Along the via ferrata.