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Via Ferrata Paolin Piccolin

Peak:
Cima dell’Auta Orientale, 2624 m
Grade:
C/D
(Schall)
(Smith/Fletcher):  
Technical difficulty:
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Total Time:
8 hrs
Ferrata time:
~2 hrs (370m elevation gain)
~2 hrs (370m elevation gain)
Total Ascent:
1,350 m
Approach time:
3 hrs
Descent time:
3 hrs
Orientation:
southwest
GPX file:

Description

A long and demanding outing. The access trail is steep and tiring. The Auta summit rises grandly above the valley, while the ferrata climbs up the not-very-steep northwest face. The descent, partially equipped, still requires caution. Sure footing and mountain experience are essential. The route offers beautiful, solitary views.

Access & starting point

From Bolzano via Passo di Costalunga to Val di Fassa, Moena, and then over Passo San Pellegrino to Caviola. Cross the town centre and follow signs to Colmean. At the end of the road is a car park.

Approach

From Colmean (1274 m), follow signs to Rifugio Cacciatori (1745 m). Just behind the hut, a sign indicates the route to Cima d'Auta. The trail is well marked and climbs steeply through scree. At a fork (signed), follow the left fork marked "Via Ferrata". Climb a rocky and grassy slope, then after a long traverse beneath rock walls, reach the base of the ferrata (iron plaque and ladder).

Route

The ferrata climb, not very scenic, is long. The trail, like the first ferrata section, climbs scree. The upper part of the descent, equipped only in places, is steep and exposed. The charm of this outing lies in its remoteness and rarely travelled nature. As a climbing route, it's only recommended with caution. But for those who love long and demanding hikes leading to an excellent summit—this is the right place!

Technical Details

Well-equipped with steel cables, rungs, and a few ladders. Only short steep sections at the lower part. Up to the Forcella di Medil, the trail runs along a rubble-filled gully. Watch out for falling rocks! Short exposed sections at the upper wall, not particularly steep, but requiring confident footing.

Descent

From the summit, descend to the saddle (sign "Via normale") and follow cables along the north ridge down a steep rocky slope and meadow. The path continues (partially marked in red) down a gully to a heli-pad (H) and a meadow. Follow signs left across grassy and rocky terrain to rejoin the ascent trail back to the start.