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Via Ferrata Punta Anna & Tofana Di Mezzo

Area:
Cortina
Peak:
Tofana di Mezzo, 3,244m
Grade:
D
(Schall)
(Smith/Fletcher):  
Technical difficulty:
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Total Time:
6 - 7 hrs
Ferrata time:
4 hrs
Total Ascent:
1,659 m
Approach time:
1 hr
Descent time:
Orientation:
South
GPX file:

Description

A bonafide classic, described here is the route that combines Via Ferrata Giuseppe Olivieri up to Punta Anna and then continues on Via Ferrata Tofana Di Mezzo to the summit at 3,244m.

For those who love big long alpine climbs, this one is spectacular, but it's a long day even moving at speed and with fine weather. Poor weather or fog would make orientation and navigation challenging .

Access & starting point

From Cortina, turn right at a signposted asphalt forest road leading to the Pie Tofana (1,700m). Park here or nearby. This ferrata demands an early start (see descent) so its unlikely the lift will be open, so walk up the rough dirt roads and paths to Rifugio Duca d’Aosta (2,050m) and on to Rifugio Pomedes (2,303m).

Approach

From the upper chairlift station near Rifugio Pomedes theres a sign for via ferrata Punta Anna, and follow a short but steep path beneath the rocks of Punta Anna to the ferrata start, which is visible from the lift.

Route

A long, superb and direct ascent on excellent rock, with good holds and footholds. Climbing experience is definitely recommended.

There are some difficult and exposed sections that require good technique and upper body strength, followed by an easy trail in a surreal landscape full of old avalanche protection structures. 

After the airy traverse to Torre Gianni Aglio and an easier intermezzo, a steep descent (secured) leads to the saddle at the foot of the southeast ridge (Bus de Tofana). 

The continuation to Tofana di Mezzo is marked in red on the saddle (toward the avalanche barriers). There's a short steel cable at the beginning, and some long ladder climbs to reach a path that leads to the summit.

Technical Details

Solid high-mountain experience is essential.

There are quite long sections, especially in the second half. Parts of it are easy terrain, others partly exposed. Anchor points are not always in the best condition, and anchor points are rare, such as on the difficult section on Torre Gianni Aglio.

Attempting this early in the season would mean significant chance of encountering snow, so an ice axe is recommended.

Descent

From the Tofana di Mezzo (Cima Tofana) cable car station take the cable car down two stages to the Col Drusciè cable car station then walk on tracks back to your car.

Bear in mind the cable car operates mid-June to end of September and the last cable car down is about 4:30pm and that there is no accommodation at the summit. Nor is there a walk off if you're late.

Gallery