★☆☆☆☆
★★☆☆☆
★★★☆☆
★★★★☆
★★★★★

Ferrata Capitano Bilgeri

Area:
Sesto
Peak:
Monte Piano, 2,305m
Grade:
B/C
(Schall)
(Smith/Fletcher):  
Technical difficulty:
💪
💪 💪
💪 💪 💪
💪 💪 💪 💪
💪 💪 💪 💪 💪
Total Time:
5½ hrs
Ferrata time:
1 hr
(130m elevation gain)
Total Ascent:
1,000 m
Approach time:
2 hrs
Descent time:
2½ hrs
Orientation:
Northwest
GPX file:

Description

A short and easy ferrata that climbs the northern wall of Monte Piano. The route runs through an area rich in historical significance, marked by its role in World War I. You can already sense the importance of the mountain by observing its trench systems and ruins. Monte Piano is a unique open-air museum and a dream destination for history lovers, offering breathtaking views. However, despite being easy and scenic, Capitano Bilgeri is not to be underestimated—the descent is long and steep!

Access & starting point

From Val Pusteria, drive toward Dobbiaco, then into Val di Landro (toward Cortina) and past Hotel Tre Cime, into Val d i Rienza. At 1406 m, a parking lot is located at the entrance to the trail.

Approach

From the parking lot (1406 m), follow the gravel path through Val di Rienza. After 300 m, turn right onto trail no. 6, which climbs steeply. Follow signs for "Monte Piano" or "Pioniersteig", which bring you to the start of the ferrata (signposted "Ferrata Bilgeri").

Route

A short and relatively simple route, but with a long, steady ascent. The climb is mostly secured, though some exposed areas are free climbing. The ferrata was recently renovated, with new steel cables. The route still has steep, unsecured steps, so sure footing is essential.

Technical Details

A short, easy route, mostly secured, with some free climbing sections. Despite being simple, it's very exposed and requires confidence on vertical terrain.

Descent

From the summit of Monte Piano (2305 m), follow trail no. 6 or Alta Via no. 3 through the plateau's trench system to the Forcella dei Castrati (indicated "6A"). Descend along the tourist path (trail no. 4), or follow trail 6A past Lago di Landro, back to the starting point.