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Ferrata degli Alleghesi

Area:
Civetta
Peak:
Monte Civetta 3,220m
Grade:
C
(Schall)
(Smith/Fletcher):  
Technical difficulty:
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Total Time:
10 hours
Ferrata time:
~3 hours (400m elevation gain, 200m down)
~3 hours (400m elevation gain, 200m down)
Total Ascent:
1,800 m
Approach time:
3 hrs
Descent time:
4½ hrs
Orientation:
North East
GPX file:

Description

This is a high-altitude itinerary, very long, especially if done in a single day. The ascent is not particularly challenging from a technical perspective but requires excellent endurance and sustained concentration.

Access & starting point

Arriving from the north: Drive through Selva di Cadore, then continue to Passo Staulanza, proceeding to the starting point at Pala Favera (1530 m, with a campsite and ski lifts). Park here. Arriving from the south: Travel through Val di Zoldo towards Pecol, then continue towards Passo Staulanza. A few hairpin bends before the pass, you will find the parking area at Pala Favera.

Approach

Follow a forest road towards Rifugio Coldai (trail markers 504-556) until reaching Casera di Pioda at 1816 m (a mountain bike can be useful up to this point). Continue on trail 556 towards Rifugio A. Sonino al Coldai (2132 m). From the refuge, follow Sentiero Tivan (557) westward—some sections are already equipped with cables—until you reach Porta del Masarè. Here, on a rock block, the red inscription "F.TA Alleghesi" is visible. Follow the arrows to the right. After 10 minutes, you will reach the start of the route.

Route

The Ferrata degli Alleghesi is one of the most demanding via ferratas in the Dolomites, not so much for its climbing difficulty but due to its exposed position, the altitude of the summit, and the long ascent and descent.

Technical Details

The route is very demanding and requires excellent leg endurance. The key passage is a narrow gully in the first third of the route, which can be overcome using numerous iron rungs. After reaching the Punta Tissi saddle, a traverse to the left follows. From here, the terrain becomes more rugged, alternating between walking and climbing sections along the north ridge, eventually leading to the summit (marked by old red trail signs).

Descent

In about 25 minutes from the summit, follow a rough, partially marked path—equipped in some sections—to reach Rifugio Torrani (2984 m). Continue the descent along the Via Normale until reconnecting with Sentiero Tivan (557), then head east to return to Rifugio Coldai. The Via Normale requires maximum concentration as it can be classified as a via ferrata but is not fully equipped throughout. Be cautious of falling rocks and remaining snow patches.