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Ferrata Delle Scalette

Area:
Sesto
Peak:
Torre di Toblin, 2,617m
Grade:
B/C
(Schall)
(Smith/Fletcher):  
Technical difficulty:
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Total Time:
4½ hrs
Ferrata time:
45mins
(110m elevation gain)
Total Ascent:
550 m
Approach time:
1½ hrs
Descent time:
2 hrs
Orientation:
North/East
GPX file:

Description

A short ascent route, but very steep and exposed, mostly on ladders. The initial approach to the ladders is partially overhanging. This ferrata, due to its brevity, serves as an ideal test route for those who want to begin tackling more difficult climbs. On the exposed sections, one must have mountain experience, arm strength, and be completely free from vertigo!

Access & starting point

Take Val Pusteria towards Dobbiaco, turn into Val di Landro (towards Cortina), and continue to Carbonin.  Turn left toward Misurina, go up the private toll road to Rifugio Auronzo. 

Alternatively, in summer (June–September), take the bus from Dobbiaco.

Approach

From Rifugio Auronzo (2326 m), follow the wide trail heading towards Sella Paterno, continuing in the direction of Rifugio Tre Cime (2405 m). Behind the hut (signposted), a red-marked climb begins up the north face of Torre di Toblin. Keep left around the base of the tower until reaching the ferrata start.

Route

An extremely interesting and challenging ferrata in a spectacular environment, ascending the north face of Torre di Toblin. The approach isn't too long and is quite scenic. Those in good physical shape may combine this with the Innerkofler ferrata on Monte Paterno.

Technical Details

A short but steep and very exposed ferrata, fully secured with steel cables and ladders.

Descent

From the summit, descend along the northeast flank (marked as Sentiero Attrezzato Cappellano Hosp, red triangle markers). Some exposed sections are unsecured but easy to scramble, while others are more exposed and secured with cables.