Via Ferrata Aldo Roghel
Description
The protection on this route fall squarely into the "vintage iron" category. A difficult climb on poor rock, sometimes steep, and sometimes requiring significant arm strength. When other climbers are present, rockfall risk increases. The steel cables are often slack, with wide gaps between anchors; solid mountain experience is essential. In case of thunderstorms or heavy rain, this route should absolutely be avoided due to the high risk of rockfall and landslides.
Access & starting point
Approach
From Rifugio Lunelli (1,568 m), follow signs to Rifugio Berti. Just before the hut, cross a stream. Before the bridge, climb a clearly visible slope (no signage), then turn left at trail no. 152. Continue until a sign for "Ferrata Roghel" appears. The path is marked with red dots and leads steeply uphill to the ferrata's start.
Route
There are certainly more beautiful ferratas than Roghel. But when included in the Monte Popera loop, for a trained and experienced alpinist, it offers a stimulating and scenic experience. The climb ends at Forcella tra le Guglie (2,540 m).
Technical Details
A difficult climb, mostly protected by steel cables, with very steep sections (often aided by iron rungs). The steel cable is in poor condition, often loose and poorly anchored, which can make climbing quite challenging; a fall on these cables could be fatal. The rock is often fragmented and brittle, with a high risk of rockfall, especially in groups. Caution is crucial.
This ferrata can't be done as a standalone hike because there is no easy or short descent; you must continue through the demanding Cengia Gabriella.
Descent
From the back of Forcella tra le Guglie, descend via ledges (steel cable), heading left to the west side of Prima Guglia di Stallata. Continue down a scree gully along the wall to a point at 2,300 m in the upper valley of Ciadin di Stallata (240 m descent, ~45 min). Slightly below, at 2,219 m, is Bivacco Battaglione Cadore.
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