Via Ferrata L. Zacchi
Description
The Zacchi Ferrata is the steepest ascent to Schiara and climbs the south face just below the summit. The sections are steep but well-equipped along the entire route, requiring solid technical climbing skills.
Access & starting point
Via Valsugana to Feltre; from there, continue towards Belluno; turn towards Agordo and follow signs for Bolzano Bellunese. From Bolzano Bellunese to Case Bortot; park at the barrier and take trail 501, initially flat.
Approach
From the parking area, follow trail 501 through Val de l'Art to Rifugio 7° Alpini. From the hut, climb straight in the direction of the Schiara summit (trail markers 503 and 514).
Route
Partially vertical ascent, feasible before the summit ridge thanks to its southern exposure. Exposed passages and ladders, as well as walking sections, lead to the steep final pillar. The route ends at Bivacco Ugo from Bernardina at 2320 m.
Technical Details
Like the old Ferrate Sperti and P. Rossi (formerly Marmol), Zacchi has a very exposed and more difficult access to reach the summit ridge due to the steep ascent and climbing nature. Not returning via the steep ascent, the continuation and descent require significant energy and fitness!
Descent
Reaching the summit ridge at Bivacco Ugo from Bernardina, return via the ascent route (approx. 1½ hours) or descend via the Berti Ferrata to the summit (approx. 1 hour) and descend via the former Marmol Ferrata (now P. Rossi), approx. 2½ hours. This is the preferred variant. Trained alpinists can also traverse to Monte Pelf. All descent routes lead to Rifugio 7° Alpini. From there, approx. 2½ hours return to the starting point.
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