Via Ferrata Merlone
Description
The west face of Cima Cadini Nordest is mostly climbed using a series of very exposed ladders. Between these ladders, there are exposed traverses, sections secured with steel cables, and unsecured rocky terrain. This route is not recommended in unstable or stormy weather!
Access & starting point
From Cortina d’Ampezzo or Dobbiaco, drive to Lake Misurina, then head toward Tre Cime - Rifugio Auronzo(clearly signposted). After a few switchbacks, turn right toward Rifugio Fonda Savio (signposted, parking available). Follow trail no. 115 to Rifugio Fonda Savio (2367 m).
Approach
From the hut, take trail no. 116, heading below Cima Cadini Nord-ovest and into the Cadin del Nevaio glacial cirque. Then, turn left at the sign marked "Ferrata Merlone".
Route
This is a highly scenic route with a long series of very exposed ladders ascending about 100 m across the steep cliff. The upper section of the trail is not fully secured and includes exposed terrain. For this reason, mountain experience and sure footing are required. You descend along the same ferrata, so you must be mindful of the weather when planning.
Technical Details
The climb starts along cables and transitions into easy scrambling over exposed terrain. Three long ladder sections, in between sections secured with steel ropes and exposed walking terrain towards the summit.
The approach to the beginning of the steel cables is easy climbing in exposed terrain. Both the ladders and the remaining belays belong to a long-gone generation and should definitely be renewed.
Even though the trail has recently been rerouted, some barriers remain woefully insufficient, particularly for holding back unstable rock, so rockfall danger must be taken seriously.
Some of the protection is aging, so pay special attention to the condition of the belays on this climb!
Descent
Descent is via the same ferrata route, then follow the original access trail back down.
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